So, we have had to give up on completing a thru-hike this year. Lucky blew a pad on the first day and AJ's mental issues were not as under control as we thought, so we are heading home.
Other than those two things, though, the experience was amazing.
We started out from Bob's on Thursday at 4:45, and arrived at the border at 5:50 (just after true dawn). Took the obligatory pictures at the monument, and started out. Between AJ being a turtle hiker (slow and steady wins the race), and having to stop and dig cat-holes for Lucky, the others got away from us pretty quickly.
The scenery was gorgeous, and getting there at first light gave us time to hike before the heat of the day. We actually had multiple water sources in the first stretch, when usually there is nothing for 20 miles, so we counted ourselves lucky.
Eventually, though, the general dryness of the region took its toll, as there were no really good shade areas to rest during the heat of the day. The sandiness of the trail also the made going a bit harder. The dog was overheating, what with his black double coat of fur, so when we finally found a place with good shade, we plopped down for a while to wait out the worst of the heat.
We made it fifteen miles that day (had no choice, really, water-wise), and so were able to camp at Hauser Creek. There were actually a fair number of others who camped there as well, but of our starting group only two others hadn't continued on. There was nice shade and good water flow, so it made a great camp site. Also, a great place to rest before the next five miles, which were going to be gnarly with a heavy pack and added on top of what we had just done.
I encountered my first Rattlesnake at about mile 12. He didn't start rattling at me, but Lucky (who was right behind me) set him off. AJ was a bit behind him, and had to pause for a bit for the snake to slither off. Lucky didn't really even register the snake. I worry about that dog's survival instincts sometimes. To be fair, though, the first water we had seen in about 5 miles and since the hottest part of the day was just beyond the snake, so he was pretty focused on that.
The next morning, we didn't break camp as early as we should have, unfortunately, partly because that is when we realized that Lucky had blown a pad. AJ had to perform some doggy first-aid and wrap his paw. He was also sore, as he had never carried a pack as heavy or gone for as long a hike as he did the day before, so we were pretty worried.
The next five miles in to Lake Morena campground would have been a piece of cake for someone used to hiking in the North Cascades. 1000 feet of elevation gain in the first mile, then rolling afterwards. Sounds like an easy day to me. Except for the just under forty pound pack on my back, the sandy trail moving under my feet, how exposed to the heat it was (and it got up into the high 80s), and the fact that I had done fifteen miles the day before.
We got started a little before 10:00 (not a good start to a hot, dry, exposed day, I know). Almost immediately, AJ's issues reared their heads. Not a good sign. Eventually, it was decided that we turn on our walkie-talkies (brought along for just such a situation), and I go ahead with the dog to get us both out of the heat and hopefully him into the water of the lake. So I took off, hoping the dog would follow. He did for a bit, but he kept stopping to make sure AJ was following, and I lost him.
I radioed AJ and confirmed that they were together, then kept going to scout out shady areas that they could stop and rest in. I found a few, and radioed back each time until the ridge blocked the signal. After that, my only option was to ask anyone I passed going the opposite direction to keep an eye out for them.
I made it to the campground around one o'clock, and was invited down to one of the campsites for some trail magic. Rod (inventor of the Stick Pic, a trekking pole attachment to help you take selfies) had a shelter, free food and cold drinks. He also allowed us to set up tents on his campsite so we wouldn't have to pay he small fee of the PCT hiker spot. He refused any sort of payment, welcomed all the thru-hikers personally and warmly, and was the definition of a Trail Angel. His only request of any sort of payment was that if we had any gear we were dumping, to do so in his hiker box he had set up. He said that he was building karma, as he planned to thru-hike in 2019, and hoped someone would be in the same spot, offering the same thing.
I dropped my pack and availed myself of a cold drink and a hot dog. I got a lot of good-natured crap from Rod and the other thru-hikers for leaving AJ behind, but once I explained the situation and my plan, they settled down. The plan:
Step 1: Keep the walkie on me and check regularly to see if she was in range.
Step 2a: Wait and rest a couple hours. (I knew she planned to wait out the heat in a shady area, so I figured she would nap for awhile herself)
Step 2b: Check in with any new hikers that showed up to see if they had seen her.
Step 3: If she didn't show up by 3-ish, find a daypack, load it with some water and some quick energy snacks, and head back to take a load off both the dog and her.
Around 3, I started getting antsy, and so started looking for a pack. Couldn't find one, but one of the hikers that was posted up in Rod's camp offered to keep an eye on my stuff if I just dumped my pack out, so that is what I did. Another hiker also offered to head back with me to help (Lone Star, you rock). He grabbed a water bottle and we headed back down the trail.
We met a couple about a third of a mile up the trail who were carrying Lucky's pack, and it turned out AJ had actually taken them up on their offer of help (probably only because it was for Lucky, she's stubborn). From their description of where she was when they met her, Lone Star wasn't prepared for that far of a trek back with only a water bottle, so he took Lucky's pack back to camp for me and I headed on down the trail.
I was able to make good time, as the heat was dying down and I had a MUCH lighter load on my back. I hauled it back, checking to see if she was in walkie range periodically. About a mile and a half back, I finally got a response. She was doing ok, just moving slowly and letting the dog set the pace. Somewhere between 2.5 and 3 miles back, I ran into them, and I led them to some shade I had just passed to take Lucky's vest and her food bag. AJ also re-wrapped Lucky's paw.
After that, they both did better. Lucky was a trooper. With a fresh wrap on his foot and me in the lead, he kept moving as long as I didn't push too fast. We probably only made about a mile an hour, but slow and steady we made it to camp.
We took a rest day at Rod's campsite to figure out our course of action. AJ and Lucky were definitely headed home, but what was I going to do? If I was going to continue on, I needed to do a major gear swap. We had contingency plans for if something like this happened, but we both had figured that if it did, it would be at least a couple weeks in, not on day two.
I decided it was best if I scratched as well. It wasn't the easiest decision, but I think it was for the best. Rod was leaving in the morning and offered us a ride to the airport, again showing what an awesome specimen of humanity he is. I definitely plan on being up at Stevens or Snoqualmie passes in 2019 playing trail angel in the fall to help return the favor during his attempt.
All the hikers we met were totally awesome people, and I am sad to be leaving that community. I am planning on doing some sections of the trail this summer, and maybe will attempt a full thru-hike next year.
